ROSEMARY'S ADVENTURES

“‘I want to stare death in the eye’… how Christopher Hitchens, Susan Sontag, John Updike and other great writers confronted their mortality.” This Guardian headline attracts me the morning before Helen and I leave for the North Georgia mountains. I view myself as someone who faces death with relative ease. Hah!

On this three-day, five-waterfall trip I find I don’t want to stare death in the eye or nose or any other part of death. I don’t want my car to roll down a mountain. I’m afraid of a flat tire and getting stuck in the mud. What kind of adventurer am I, anyway?

PLANNING our waterfall adventure: My Hiking Waterfalls in Georgia and South Carolina guide book has colored slips of paper marking four hikes of half-mile or less. Helen is only six months away from knee surgery so I’ve selected walks that are labeled “Easy.”

WEDNESDAY

After we go past the cutoff for Smithgall Woods, I drive toward Falls #1 and 2 on Water Creek.
At the Chestatee Wildlife Management Area I grab my free fishing/hunting certificate, a benefit of being this old.

After seeing a cute little drip of a falls, we see a sign by the road which disturbs Helen: “Bears Are Active In This Area.”
Having seen a momma bear and two babies from the parking lot of another park a couple of years ago, I do not fear bears.

We go down the hard packed dirt and find a place to park.

Does it matter which is Falls #1 or 2?

They are beautiful — both of them.

It’s late afternoon but I think we have time for one more waterfall: Helton Creek Falls, near Vogel State Park. We travel down a very bumpy 2.2 miles. I worry about the strength of my tires; all the soft dirt must have washed away, leaving only rocks. Helen gets out about halfway to check the depth of a large water puddle with her tall hiking stick. Since I am traveling about 5 mph to safeguard the car’s tires and suspension, 2.2 miles takes quite a while.

No other cars in the parking space, but after about five minutes walking on the three foot wide trail two young women come up behind us. They live in Young Harris and come here often. That’s nice to hear. We let them pass because the path is full of rocks and gets even skinnier.

The falls are forceful and noisy, coming down from 30 feet. We enjoy them fully without having to go to the very top; there is not much to grab ahold of and the sun is getting low on the horizon.

As we return to the car, two young men come from their car, followed by a van full of six young people.

I say, “That was quite a road, wasn’t it?”
One of the guys says, “I’ll say. I hope it’s worth all that bumping and jostling.”

As we drive away we wonder what all those young people are going to do when it gets dark.

THURSDAY

The next morning we head toward Blue Ridge and Sea Creek Falls. My book says, “Seclusion! If it’s seclusion you’re seeking, this is the waterfall for you. Although it is a short and easy hike, this one doesn’t get much traffic. Why, I have no idea because the way Sea Creek Falls flows perfectly into its own hidden cove is exceptional.”

On the way Helen sees a falling down house surrounded by a field of daffodils.

After we find the Cooper Creek Recreation Area and the Sea Creek sign, the unpaved side road is only .1 mile till where we park.

The trail is a half-mile of moving mud. Looks like a new creek has formed recently and is heading toward the car.

Nice ferns, moss, and lichens.

Helen can’t safely travel up the muddy step-like roots to where the bulk of the falls are. But she sits on a strangely placed toppled wall and leans out over the creek to see part of the falls.

I scrabble up to take pictures for her.

Massive boulders create a curve so the water flows in a curve too. The one foot pathway is full of roots and sloppy with mud so I place my feet carefully.

then...

Out on the paved road again I see signs for Deep Hole. What could that be? I’m thinking of a sink hole in the ground. But it’s a 25 foot deep hole in the Toccoa River.

A fisherman tell us there are bass, catfish, and trout nearby. He’s using “power bait” which looks like turquoise chewing gum. It is a nice campground for fisherpeople.

then...

“Ready for another adventure to an unknown place” I ask Helen. “What about that sign for the Toccoa River Swing Bridge? Let’s find out what a swing bridge is.” My first mistake is not asking my smart phone.


Lots of Running Pine

Notice the lack of information on the sign? We head off down a gravel road with no idea how far we’ll need to go. One narrow lane, there are occasional bulges for letting other cars pass.
I have to drive so close to the rising hillside on my left that I can take a photo of the running pine from the driver's seat. It is lonely heading out.

The rocks are about four inches tall. Frequent potholes are that deep as well. The curves are so tight, I could be driving the Amalfi coast. My car, which has over 210,000 miles on it, has never been asked to perform like this.

In my rear view mirror I see a large white SUV. When I can, I let the young guy with Popeye arms pass. I guess if my little Toyota Corolla was like his car, I could drive like he does. And if I had his big muscled arms, I could push my car if the tire blew.

After some unknown amount of miles we come to big mud puddles in the middle of the road with gushy mud (with tire tracks) on the only side not going down the mountain. When I was younger I pushed cars out of snow banks, off ice, and even helped push our bus out of mud in Uganda (except we ultimately had to leave it in the mud). What has happened to my strength and courage? Damn, I don’t want to become a little old lady you have to help across the street!

I just sit there for a minute or two and apologize to Helen because I decide to turn around. I am afraid to get stuck and do not know whether I could be towed out of there. I am ever so grateful that I can back up to a wide, non-muddy place. I set the odometer to see how far we travel on the way back.

Going back, two cars pass us, going where we just left. What do they know that we don’t? The odometer reports we traveled 2.9 miles. In two hours?

As soon as we get to Blue Ridge I google Toccoa River Swing Bridge on my phone. Supposedly it is the biggest swing bridge in the country. The drive to it is THREE MILES long. Missed it by 1/10 of a mile. Frustrated finding I am the Queen of Wimp, I promise to try it again another time.

Meantime, Helen and I enjoy our delicious Reuben at a newly opened German restaurant. German polkas and waltzes the owner plays remind me of the wonderful dances Gene Halski (Georgia’s best polka dancer) and I enjoyed during many Oktoberfests.

We have a few hours left of daylight so Helen and I walk on a trail at Brasstown Valley Resort. It is fairly challenging because it is slippery and rocky.

The winter woods glow with American Beech, which still have their golden brown leaves on them.

Lots of dead hemlocks. Perhaps some had blazes painted on them to mark the trail, because we travel quite a bit unsure of whether we are still going in the right direction. We are.

Evening is beautiful.

FRIDAY: Going Home Day

We both sleep very well after that four mile walk and wake up to have a hearty breakfast. I will be searching for two more waterfalls for us to see on our way home.

We find Sliding Rock on Wildcat Creek because the guide book directions match what we find. The unpaved road is fairly straight and wide.

The water moves over large smooth boulders and into pools that must be fun to cool off in during hot days. I feel invigorated by this success and drive off to the sixth waterfall of our trip.
Again, we follow paved country roads to get to the area described in the book. “The trail to Minnehaha Falls is also known as the Fall Branch Trail. Surprisingly, this waterfall does not seem to get a lot of traffic or praise… Teeming with character and uplifting in spirit, I highly recommend the ‘laughing waters’ of Minnehaha.”

Yes, the directions are complicated, but we follow them so very well until… “After approximately 0.1 mile, Low Gap Road makes a sharp bend to the right and a dirt road continues straight ahead. This dirt road is Bear Gap Road. Follow it along the lakeside for 1.5 miles to a small pullout on the left.”

We see the dirt road. We both see the sign pointing to “Minnehaha Falls.” I drive down the very same dirt road. And keep on driving, further along on the skinniest road we’ve been on, with sharp turns and a rocky surface. I see no pullout whatsoever and do not take a single photo. Soon we’re up in a mountain and I have no idea where I am. Frankly scared, I try to look calm for Helen’s sake. Some very strange people actually live off of Lake Seed. They have to drive down at an angle to their home that would give me perpetual nightmares.

I have no place to turn around until we’ve gone what seems like hours with my nose pressed against the front window, my fingers gripping the wheel so tightly they’ve turned snow white. We’re obviously on the wrong road. But would it be better to keep going forward? I can see Lake Seed way down there to the left. Jeez, I can’t look down there. I’m singing a gospel chorus to myself, “God is keepin’ me.” That helps. I’m so very thankful my 2003 Corolla is up to this.

The internet says, “Seed Lake is a 240-acre (0.97 km²) reservoir with 13 miles (21 km) of shoreline located in Rabun County.”

After another couple of hours we eventually come to a real road, which goes to Route 441. I tell Helen, “We’re going to Goats on a Roof for ice cream right now!”

I am so embarrassed by my fear and lack of humor. I wouldn’t blame Helen if she never went on another trip with me. But a couple of days later she writes, “Thanks again for all the driving you did. I enjoyed the trip immensely. Hope your car recovers…”

That same day, when I tell my friend, Michael, the story of not finding Minihaha Falls, he says, “You know what that waterfall is? Ha! Ha!” I laugh like crazy.

I need to tell you how lovely it is to know you are reading this. Some folks write in the Comments (below), some send me an e-mail and some tell me in person or in Facebook. Regardless, I love thinking of you when I write about my special year.

EATONTON

Monday I wake up feeling dopey. But I want to take my photographs to Eatonton Georgia. The Plaza Arts Center invites photographers to enter their photography-only show scheduled April 2-8. My photos were rejected by the two other places I entered them (juried shows at Lyndon House and OCAF) but there were hundreds of other entries including painting, sculpture, metalwork, and pottery. I need to learn how to make my photos more artistic (and less realistic) for those shows.

But this non-juried show is only photographs. The only way my pictures can be rejected is if I fill out the paperwork incorrectly. The judge will not jury pictures in or out but will award prizes amongst three categories: amateur, professional, and youth. I check the forms three times since my brain is still bleary even after two more jolts of caffeine. Did I check all the boxes?

My car needs gas. This is the kind of morning where I can’t figure out the buttons on the gas pump.

Heading South on 441 is a pretty nice drive. Farms, pecan groves.

I stop at an Oconee National Forest ranger office. Nobody comes out to speak with me. I take some free literature, look briefly at the displays, and take pictures of weeds on their lawn.

Many weeds are beautiful close up plus they can be good food for birds. I’m coming to like them.

Nobody is home at the Art Center. Empty lobby. I knock on an unlabeled door. Nobody answers but I hear a voice. The door opens onto an empty hallway at the tourist center. Why do I feel conspicuous when there’s nobody watching?

Aha! A sign about where to take photographs points to another room, which also turns out to be empty.

"Hello..." I sing.

A young Chamber of Commerce employee arrives telling me to put my photos in a box in yet another empty room. I just leave them there? I’m in the Amateur category which is so right!

Quick stop at their lovely restroom.

I feel unsettled so I ground myself by getting on my knees on their front lawn, to take more weed photos.

The dandelion head seems magical with the sun making each of its 50 flower seeds shine.

HEADING NORTH

I’ve got scanty directions for going home in an interesting fashion, hopefully for a walk in the woods.   First street is Harmony Road, which is off 441, turning a backward right. I give myself points for finding it because the highway sign calls it “117.”   But then...

Seems like I’m lost in farm country. I pass a Scenic Farms Driving Tour sign — twice.   Then, two different signs warning Congested Area. I see no other cars, no people. Are the horses, cows and goats congested?

Two signs saying Famous Authors Driving Tour entice me, but there is no pullover to read the little print. I hope to pursue that another time: Article about Famous Authors Driving Tour

On a narrow farm road a wobbling flatbed truck holding six massive rolls of uncovered hay looks like it will fall over into my lane. I am too scared to grab my camera. In some fields, hay rolls are covered in white plastic: giant marshmallows.

I remember helping Gene at haying time.   He’d poke the center of a newly bound roll with his special pointy tractor and put it in the back of the Dodge Ram, which I’d drive to the barn. Then he’d use that same tractor to stab the hay roll and move it into place in an ever-growing, neatly-arranged stack. What abundance: to have a big barn with a good roof covering dozens of rolls of hay for his happy cows!

On Old Bethel Church Rd there are crutches propped up against the front door of what I assume is old Bethel Church. What do the crutches signify? Is it testimony of a healing? Are they someone’s extra set waiting for adoption? Is someone inside the building limping around, holding onto pews? I love mysteries.

There’s Rock Eagle again. I noticed it once going south to Eatonton and now, no more than three times, coming north. Looks like I will have to go home on 441, but to make this day an adventure, I want to see new things. And I do.

There’s a brand new store right on the main drag, south of Madison. They opened February 17, trying to sell Georgia-made and Georgia-grown products.

Meat, milk, potatoes, yarn, cheese.

I’ve never seen loose detergent for sale.
Sort of an expensive Earth Fare.

I make a couple of stops I’ve never taken the time to check out before: the Apalachee River and the old Apalachee Schoolhouse.

The sun clock in front of the school tells time with Roman numerals but it is off one hour. It says it is “I’ instead of “II.”